Replace the Ingenium 2.0 diesel turbocharger

This guide is for the Ingenium 2.0 diesel four with a single turbo — typically 150/180 hp stamps such as 204DTD. Twin-turbo 204DTA (SD4 / D240) is a different stack. Petrol fours and the 3.0 six use different turbos. Confirm the number on the old housing and the VIN before you order.

These turbos usually fail from oil: diluted oil after incomplete DPF regenerations, plastic from a worn timing-chain guide in the pickup, or a restricted feed pipe. Swapping the cartridge and leaving the pipes is how you buy the job twice.

Which job are you doing?

Used engine on the stand

If a used 2.0 diesel is already out, inspect the turbo, oil feed and pickup before it goes in. A seized or leaking turbo on a “complete” engine is not a bargain. Replace pipes and gaskets with the turbo. While the sump is accessible, do the timing chain kit — guide debris is a common turbo killer.

Engine still in the car

On compact SUVs the turbo is usually reachable from above after the airbox, heat shields and EGR/pipes come off. Longitudinal saloons and large Land Rovers need more under-body and heat-shield work. Either way: support the exhaust, new gaskets, new oil feed and drain, fresh oil and filter.

What must be new with the turbo

• The turbo itself, matched to the old stamp (single-turbo vs twin-turbo).
• Oil feed and oil drain pipes, plus copper washers and sealing rings — never reuse crushed washers.
• Turbo-to-manifold gasket, manifold gasket if you disturb it, and new nuts.
• Engine oil and filter to JLR spec after the job. Many 2.0 diesels: STJLR.03.5007 0W-30.
• Intercooler if the old turbo dumped oil through the intake.

Genuine numbers commonly catalogued for the single-turbo diesel (always VIN-check):

Turbo recommendations

What we would buy for a single-turbo 150/180 hp 2.0 diesel, in order:

1. Genuine LR140581 — the turbo we would order. It is the later number in the LR094424 / LR083483 line. Check the actuator and the Mitsubishi 49335-01xxx stamp still match your old unit.
2. New Mitsubishi 49335-01970 (also listed as 105123473) — the OEM turbo. Nearby stamps (01960, 01950, 01900) are related; they are not automatic substitutes. Read the housing.
3. Quality UK reman of that same family, sold with a gasket kit. Sensible if genuine stock is slow. Avoid unbranded “TD04” listings with no core number and no warranty.

Do not fit a 204DTA twin-turbo onto a 204DTD single-turbo engine. Do not fit a petrol 2.0 turbo onto a diesel. A CHRA-only swap is a specialist job, not a first turbo change.

Tools

• Socket set including the turbo-to-manifold nuts (often 13 mm on this diesel) and heat-shield fasteners that round easily.
• Penetrating oil and a torch. Exhaust studs snap if you rush them cold.
• New exhaust studs and nuts on standby.
• Clean engine oil to prime the centre housing before first start.
• Workshop data for your engine number: torque, sealant, oil grade.

Replacement sequence — engine on the stand

1. Photograph hose, pipe and heat-shield orientation. Drain residual oil.
2. Remove the air inlet, boost hose and any remaining heat shields.
3. Undo the oil feed and drain. Catch sludge. If the feed is blocked or the pipe is brittle, that is your failure mode.
4. Undo the turbo-to-manifold nuts, support the turbo, and lift it off. Do not drop gasket debris into the manifold.
5. Inspect the manifold, downpipe flange and intercooler for oil. Clean or replace as needed.
6. Fit new gaskets, washers, feed and drain. Oil the new turbo’s centre housing through the feed port until oil appears at the drain.
7. Offer the turbo up, fit new nuts, and tighten to the workshop data. Do not over-tighten a warped flange.
8. Refit hoses without kinks. Once the engine is in the car: new oil and filter, no high load for the first few miles, then check for oil leaks and boost leaks.

Extra steps — engine in the car

1. Confirm it is the turbo: blue/grey smoke, shaft play, loss of boost, whistling, or oil in the intercooler. Rule out a split boost hose and a stuck EGR first.
2. Disconnect the battery. Remove the engine cover, airbox and enough heat shielding to see the turbine housing.
3. On many compact SUVs, the EGR and nearby pipes have to come off for clearance. Longitudinal cars often need more exhaust support from below.
4. Follow the stand sequence from the oil pipes onwards. Replace the oil and filter. If chain-guide plastic is in the old oil, the turbo job is incomplete without a pickup clean and a chain kit.

After the turbo is on

• Idle it to oil pressure before you load it. Do not rev a dry centre housing.
• Shorter oil intervals afterwards. Diluted oil is how both the chain and the turbo fail.
• Recheck feed and drain joints for seepage after the first heat cycle.

Chain procedure: timing chain replacement. Faults in context: common faults.